"CHASSIS INSTALLATION"

Project Fairlane



The following is an example of how we install
our AUTO WELD chassis.
To start, record the measurments needed to
locate the chassis in the right relationship
to the body at the axle centerlines. This will be done BEFORE any cutting starts. Take the appropriate steps to secure the body before cutting starts. Then start removing the factory
floor where needed.
***
For our installation we use a combination of a
LIFT and a portable chassis jig.
***
NOTE: You don't have to remove the whole floor
pan as shown. The chassis CAN be grafted into
the stock floor as shown in our other online instructions.




An AUTO WELD fixture welded frame
shown above.
Includes: the Featherweight front
and 4-Link rear frame.



You will see in the next few
pictures, in this particular
job, that we removed almost the
entire floor of the car. Most of the
firewall is retained at this time,
as with most of the splash
pans in the front. This will help
hold the body in shape.
***
NOTE: You only want to remove what
is necessary. After the frame is welded
into place the rest can be cleaned and
modified later.









You will notice above that we have
placed braces in key areas to keep
the body from moving out of
position...between the right and
left sides near the door jams and
up front to keep the droop to a
minimum. This makes for less headaches
later.



At this time we are transferring the body
from the lift to the chassis jig. We are
now leveling the body after having clamped
the body to the chassis jig. Notice that the
new AUTO WELD frame is sitting on the jig
ready to be positioned to the body.



At this time, transfer the center
of the car to the floor using
plumb bobs. From there, using the
lower front suspension bolt holes,
drop plumb bobs down and mark the
floor and center the frame.
***
The same will be done in the back
using the lower 4-link bolt holes
to center up the rear of the frame.
***
Note: When you are locating the frame
on center..make sure that the axle
centerlines are in position (fore and aft).
***
This is the critical time in which all the
measurements that you took before you started
will come into play. In conclusion..what you
are trying to achieve is ...keeping the axle
centerlines on mark and the frame itself
centered in the body!



This is how we attach the frame
to the body using outriggers.
In the front they are placed where
the A-pillar bars of the roll cage
will be mounted.



When attaching an outrigger
to a rocker panel, a 1/8" plate
should be used to strengthen the area



The front frame is welded to core
support. Here is shown how we
mount the AUTO WELD frame in
front. In many cases, because
the front rails are flared, they
hit the core support in the right
place.



Shown..is the dropped
crossmember (outrigger) with the
1/8" plate welded into place.
Another outrigger will be welded
into place for the main hoop
of the roll cage to sit on farther
forward.
Note: On some cars..this is not
required.



In the back..notice that the rails
have 1/8" plates welded for strength.



Another view of the rear of the
frame welded into place.



Although we can offer a chassis
with a one piece rear frame rail,
it is much easier to install a
rear frame..especially a full length
frame, with the back rails stubs
being separate. Remember...you are
going to be fitting the frame inside
of the existing body shell. It makes
it so much easier to put the rear stubs
on last for a mistake free job!



Now it is time to open the rear
wheel opening. In order to start,
you have to know where the tire
is going to be located. We have
already lined up the rear housing
to do this as shown.



After the rear is lined up,
carefully remove the outer
opening as shown.



Mounting the tire will help
in determining the proper
clearance and look.



To plan out your next step,
hold the removed portions of the
fender up and mark out where
to cut. In the front...



...and in the rear of the
fender opening.



When reinstalling the fender opening
parts, a filler must be fabricated
to weld in between the two halves.
We always use a backer strip behind
where the welding is being done. This
is what it looks like from behind.
Warning: don't get the quarter too
hot when welding. A rule of thumb
is... you should be able to lay your
hand on it after welding. If it is too
hot..you may warp the sheet metal. Care
must be taken here!



This is how it should look!
Nice and straight..not warped!
A minimum of body filler is needed.




SICK!!!!




A look from inside.



Check out the clearances!
Remember you have to get the tire
off as well.



Another angle of the 4-link in
place. Note the plastic
covering around the 4-link
and coilovers. Don't want
to scratch them now.



BIG MEATS...
Shown here is what the
entire suspension looks
like before any sheet
metal is added.



AUTO WELD's trick front
suspension..shown with a
unique coilover mount
to change ride height.


Elegant and functional!
Notice the wrap-around
bracketry for strength and
being welded to 11ga material
..not the chintzy .083wall stuff
other companies use.


As you can see there is going
to be more motor room when
finished and additional pan
clearance. Also...you can use
a big radiator with the way
the front of the frame is flared.


Bottom shot...
As you can see the work
is very straight forward
and very clean looking when
done..SHOW CAR QUALITY!!


A nice shiny steering column
is a good addition to any project.


COOL!!!


VERY COOL!!!

In summary..as you can see,
it isn't difficult for the
do-it-yourselfer to install an
AUTO WELD "roller type" chassis.
To finish this project a cage and
sheet metal work still need to be
done. And of course other things
are needed to be done as well. Using
this kind of a platform in which
to start is a great way to create
your perfect ride, for a race car
or a pro-tour/streeter.
***
NOTE: AUTO WELD builds chassis
for most cars and trucks, or
by your drawings.